I arrive at Santa Marta and I go direct to Taganga by motorbike. Taganga us a smal village next to the beach, fisherman's and gringos. I have arrived to the Colombian Caribbean sea.
After choosing a hostel ( I choose the Ocean Reef hostel, smal and cheap) I go for lunch and also to watch the final of the European Super Cup... Barça wins!!!!
The night bus ride leave me without energyt, I rest for a bit at the hostel. When the sunlight disappears, I go for diner with three Chileans girls that stay as well at the hostel. There is some Gringo party like Salou (summer cheap holiday destination)... I have enough of Taganga.
This is spectacular pretty. The sea, the jungle and the mountains goes toghether and even the high number of visitors still maintain some virgin spirit.
Iquitos, the city that is more away by road of the world, is at the middle of the peruvian amazon.
I always had in mind to come here in my route around south america because Isabel Sánchez (Chata for the friends from Iquitos and of the Associació Sura), she always have talk to me about Iquitos and the Associación La Restinga that do educational work at all levels in the most needed areas of Iquitos (Barrio Libre de belen) and at some communities “ribereñas” does programs to strengthen their identity and prevent a possible but almost certainly social exclusion.
So folowing the indications of Isabel I go directly to La Restinga. I have two names, Puchin (the director) and Itala (the coordinator of Crea Belen project). They Both are on holidays... and I meet Carmen (a Professional of the Crea Project) and Yolita (the administrator), they give me a good welcome.
The journey from Copacabana to Puno has been very long ... 15 hours throught secondary roads bordering the north of the Lake Titicaca. We stamped out of Bolivia in Yunguyo. We could not get the stamp of the entrance to Peru... the immigration office was without electricity.
At the border that we realy cross, we changed the bus, and divide all of us in one van and one bus that will take us to Juliaca. I had to go in the van. We were much faster than the bus for these bads roads.
When we arrived at Juliaca we find the road blocked with stones on the road. The driver tried to go across the fields until he reached the next bridge that gaves access to the city. This bridge is blocked by hundreds of farmers protesting for the mining companies that wants to install factories on their land.
We crossed the river by foot with the backpack on, and walked a kilometer to found the bus that is drives us to Puno. After we cross we saw that the farmers start to burn tires on the bridge ...
Copacabana ...
Fish! Trout for dinner at the sea front and sunset on the Lake Titicaca for the background. I found a very affordable and decent accommodation.
In the morning I go by boat to Isla del Sol. I left almost three-quarters of the backpack at the hostel. I feel light.
We start the tour in Tupiza at 8 in the morning. In Our Land Cruise we are Ismael (the driver and theoretically the guide), Fortunata (the chef), Simon (Londoner half Spanish) with his partner Jacky (Irland), Tristan, Anna and me.
The past night has been raining a little bit, and half an hour after we start the trip start to rain lightly again. Is that lightly that end up to become snow!!!
All the peaks of the mountains are with snow at the top and the formation of El Sillar is surrounded by a very big clouds.
After crossing the border to Bolivia walking, we arrive at Villazón where we exchange money and look after transportation to Tupiza. There is a radical change with the people on the streets, shops and prices.
We find a mini bus for 15 Bolivianos (1,5€) for a trip of one hour and a half.
And we descent from 3400m of Villazón to 2950 of Tupiza through valleys much more greens every time and more agriculture.
At Tupiza we find cheap and good accommodation very fast (25b, around 2,5€ for bed) next to an agency that we will finally take the tour to Uyuni with them.
We go to discover this small city. First of all, we withdraw money from the bank because there are no ATM’s. We walk through the black market where you can find everything that you can imagine. We also visit the main market and we are also asking some agencies about what they offer and prices. Generally they all offer the same with very similar price.
When we go back at the accommodation, we contract the tour with the agency “El Grano de Oro” for 1100 Bolivians plus tree hours of horse ride for free near Tupiza.
We have dinner at the hostel and straight to the bed.
In the Morning we do the tree hours horse ride through Puerta del Diablo (Devil Gate), the Valle de los Machos and el Cañon del Inca. The guide (about 15 years old) leave the horses to their way, and we end up going very fast through the landscapes very similar to the ones we’ve seen in the movies of far west. Very Impressive experience and very hard physical exercise.
I arrive at San Pedro d’Atacama at noon. The sun is strong and I go to look for the accommodation that I booked, Backpackers Hostel. I have been recommended by the hostel in Pisco Elquí and at the blog of Francesc, Rutabaobab . A tiny hostel very comfy and familiar where you can organize tours cheaper than at the travel agencies in the village.
There I meet Daniella (Holland) and w ego for a walk around the small village, we have a coffee and fish for lunch at one of the many restaurants in the adobe buildings. She joins me to watch the match Barça 1 – Moudrid 1 that gives Barça access to the final of the Champions League!
Next morning I go to visit Tatio Geysers. They pick me up at 4:30 from the hostel to arrive there at 6:30 at the valley of Tatio to see the moment of maximum activity of this geothermic field at 4321m. You can feel the -10ºC. Luckily once the sun appears, the temperature goes up fast.
After go through the Altiplano watching fauna and flora we go to Machuca village a 4200m, and then we go to the valley of Cactus on the way to San Pedro de Atacama.
At the afternoon another tour! I want to make the day worth it. This one with Daniella and we visit the Valle de la muerte, the quebrada de Ckari and the Valley of the Moon before go to watch the sunset at the lookout of the desert and with the Valley of the Moon at our foods. What can I say...fantastic!
When we go back at Atacama, Daniella meets one friend and we go all together to have dinner... I have beef!
I sleep till late and after lunch I go on another tour, this one is to Laguna Cejar, lagoons with water tree times more salty than the ocean and that’s why you float in it! They have 35 meters depth, but you don’t go down... great! And when I go out I have all my skin white of salt. After this we visit the Ojos del Salar, two holes fills up of fresh water in the middle of the dessert. I have a swim to take out the salt of my body. To end this tour we visit the Salar of Tebinquiche, where a part of the salar you have a great perspective of the Andes and the desert. There we watch the sunset with a glass of Pisco Sour.
I have dinner with Daniella and her friend again to say goodbye because I go to Argentina and they are going to Peru.
Yes Yes, Argentina again! I was interested to do a 3 day tour on 4x4 to Bolivia visiting the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa and the Salar of Uyuni, but I prefer to go to the north of Argentina to visit the Quebrada de Humahuaca and got in to Bolivia from there. The tour I wanted to do it from Bolivia, much cheaper and more natural things to see.
So, next morning I take a bus to Purmamarca crossing the Andes again.
I really enjoyed those days in San Pedro de Atacama, a little bit too many tours, but for me worth it.
At Porto Alegre I spend the day. I want to take a night bus at 23:30 to the border of Uruguay.
So we left the baggage at the station and walk to the center. We have a cheap and nice lunch at the Mercado Central.
I have a big breakfast at the hostel in Palermo. There are cakes with “Dulce de Leche "(factorias) It's impossible for me to resist.
When I check out I meet a Majorcan!, Mar (Palma), we chatted until I start thinking of going to the train station of Lacroze.
I take the 39 bus that leaves me at the door of the station and I wait at the platform 9 the train..
The Train "The Great Captain", that is how it is said, comes with a delay of half an hour (no problem ... I'm here to make a trip without prey). There are two categories tourists and Preferred, which differ with the comfort of the seat. The train is nearly full, mostly Argentines (say there are 10 foreigners of 200 passengers).
After an hour of traject, we have an incident, an accident with a level crossing. There are a victim and we have to wait for the forensic and taxation. Begins to heat.
After four hours, retake the path. Meadows, forests and rivers is what I got to the window with some ghost towns that only when the train appears people from under the stones to sell sandwiches, drinks, pies, ice cream, etc. ...
Conversations with people are sparse and with little content. I read and listen music (I downloaded Kevin Johansen).
The journey lasted until 21pm the day after I left ... total 34 hours! And I take a bus from Posadas to Puerto Iguazu (6 hours,). When I ask about the bus I meet Pablo and Alfonso (Santa Cruz, AR) who want to do the same. We do “Mates” waiting to leave.
Finally I arrived in Puerto Iguazu! It’s Raining ... I was recommended HI Puerto Iguazu, but first I look at what they have booked Paul and Alfonso, Hostel Park Iguazu. Simplet but cheaper, I stayed!
And the first idea was to relax and go to the falls the next day, but after a shower I decide to go there with two colleagues that I have done with their mate.
Between Mate and Mate we walk the paths and viewpoints of the falls. Many flora and fauna that leaves me mesmerized. We've been very lucky with the weather, the rain in a morning transforms in a sky with sun and some clouds. In the afternoon appears some rainbows that make a good composition with waterfalls ...
For dinner we bought some meat with salat. And as I was reading an email from Anna (my cousin) saying that she was in Puerto Iguazu, I see her in the kitchen with Laura from Valls!
We had dinner together and we chatted until we have wanted to go to bed.
I go back to the park with them. The second day I have 50% discount on entry to the park and I want to walk the Macuco path to a waterfall in which you can take a bath ...
So after the breakfast, no wings falls again!
It is rare to be many hours with someone you know and talking with your tongue. What things are in my head, right?
Returning to the town I buy the bus ticket to Curibita (Brazil). At first I had no intension to go to Brazil, but there is something inside me says that I have and go, and I'm nobody to contradict my feelings ...
At the hostel I do some swimming and relaxation. We had dinner pasta and sleep.
We wake up a little later but not too late ... I have to check it out.
After lounging a bit because the heat is oppressive, we walk to the edge of town where you can see the river that separates Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil.
And almost running back to the hostel to shelter us from the sun and heat.
At the afternoon I take the bus to the Bazilian, Foz do Iguaçu, I go to the bus terminal (Rodaviaria). On the bus I meet a Basque who lives in Andorra and travels 4 months every year! ... He stay with me until I take the bus ...
I get in to Argentina with a deserted landscape. No mountains. Sometime you can see some tree next to a small wood iron house, that’s all.
That’s all till 60 km to Ushuaia. The mountains, trees, and lakes appear and the road is going up and up, wining altitude very fast.
I arrive at Ushuaia at 21.30. Is dark and windy. I found a very comfortable Hostel, Hostel Haust (now as 5 hermanos hostel).
I go in to Chile again. Arriving at Puerto Natales where I do Couchsurfing in the Seguel family with many couchsurfers ... 4 tonight! We had homemade lentils for dinner.
The next morning I meet Judith and Karim to do some shopping of provisions for the trip to Torres del Paine National Park. We buy the lightest food and the more energetic one. The plans are up to 9 days to make the classic track "W" and "Circle" at the end of the “W” we'll see if we continue or not ...
In the evening dinner with fish and sleep... in the morning I have to go to the park.
The journey to El Chalten from Esquel has been long ...
It begin 5 hours delay, at 4:30 in the morning instead of 11:30!
The route passes through some very amazing desert landscapes. It remembers me the center of Australia!
The road is paved only in some sections.
We stop for lunch in the village Perito Moreno. A village 500 km away from any other.
I arrive in El Chalten at 4 am ... We walk around the village looking for accommodation, but nothing. Xavier, I and 5 people from the bus we sleep at the bus station. We wake up when it starts to arrive some buses at the terminal and we had breakfast.
I exit Chile throught a mountain pass that crosses the Puyehue National Park, and for the first time on this trip, I have to wait on the border to get into Argentina. It's only a matter of time, but the heat is high and there is no shadows.
In Bariloche I look for accommodation with two Mexicans that I met on the bus. We finally stay at the Pudu Hostel, a hostel with spectacular views of Lake Nahuel Huapi.
I went to get information about which trips are recommended and all three go out to dinner.
The next day I walk up the Cierro Campanario (there is the option to do it with lift), and behold a panoramic view of lakes and mountains.
In Castro I Couchsurfing home Ana and Leo (Chile) and the wonderful family near the center of town. Jan and Gisele (Switzerland) are also staying here.
It looks like is another country very different from the rest of Chile.
Jan and Gisele have booked a tour to visit some of the wooden church heritage and to see also the island of Lemuy. I join them. We visit Nercón, Chonchi, and the island of Lemuy where we eat an "asado" at a home of some farmers from the island.
We had dinner all the people of the house together.
The next day visited Castro in a relaxed way. It is very hot and at the afternoon I cut my hair.
It is the anniversary of Gisele and for dinner I make a tortilla with tomato with pa amb tomaquet to join the mussels, baked salmon, carpacho of salmon and salads. Cake as a dessert. In the house were a couple more of Couchsurfing Florian (Austria) and Kim (New Zealand).
I arrive at Sydney around 7 am after 10 hours of bus. Coffee and train to Winsord where I have to meet Veronica (Wwoofer, Australia) because she’s picking me up.
Winsord is a small village, well is one of the oldest village in the modern Australia.
Veronica takes me to the Cattle where she lives and where Statford Performance Horses is, in the very tiny Wilberforce area. There I meet her daughter Olivia and Cristopher (another Wwoofer, France).
The job here is to feed some of the 32 horses she have, clean the paddock and do some extra duties in the Cattle.
The place is beautiful!
A part of the job, we go sometimes with Veronica to some of the near villages to do some shopping, staff, etc. Good to go out a little of the
cattle.
Getting in at Victoria State through the Great Ocean Road is a good entry...
I do it with the van, looking at the local scenery which can seem unreal, leading to the sea and mountains.
After visiting the Twelve Apostles, we go to Johanna Beach where there is a campground of the national park.
After few hundreds of kilometers (around 800) we arrive at Coober Pedy, and we visit a Opal mine museum, we walk around the small village, pizza for lunch and we sleep underground...
Yes, underground. Coober Pedy is apparently a normal village, but almost all the houses have holes on the ground and few rooms underground that they did to look for Opal, and then they changed to part of the house... to be fresher on summer time. Also is the location were film some movies like Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Red Planet, Priscilla, Queen of the Desert o Pitch Black...
At Guangzhou I did couchsurfing in Chalne’s place at the same time as Adam (USA) and Bruno (Switzerland). My First experience of CS doing this trip has been so positive: People so nice and nice house.
The first day didn’t stop rain even for a second, and I finish completely wet... The second I visit the park Xuexiu were I expend almost all day.
In Shangri-La we say goodbye to Jon's (different paths), and I continue with Ana, Niek, Mieke, Paulina and Michal to Sichuan Province.
We enter from the part that touches Tibet (60 years ago was Tibet...) and after a hard trip by bus (physically and visually beautiful) and passing points up to 4600m above sea level ...
We reach Xiangcheng (乡城 and 3200m altitude). We look for a acommodation and we visit yhe Tibetan monastery.
Get to Luang Prabang it's been difficult. The road was close becouse the rain. Long Cue and the road transformed as a market and play zone... in 10 hours you can do a lot of things! At least the landscape was very pretty...
I started the book Mr Nice by Howard Marks.
At the bus I meet Richard, Natalie, Cris i Paul (UK), Sara (NZ), and Jordana (Canada). We arribe at Luang Prabang arround 4 in the morning!
We end at the same Guest House. We went to see the monks arround the streets of Luang Prabang and we rest.
The city is so cute thanks to be sorrouned by the big Mekong river, houses with french style and busdist temples everywhere.
Next morning, I went for a run and after breakfast, we went to visit the Kouangxi Water Fall (Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls) an espectaculars waterfalls with some swiming areas... so refreshing!
This city is a relax city. I walk trought the market, fruit shake, Vegetarian buffet...
Some Photos 2010-07-Luang Prabang (LAO) https://photos.app.goo.gl/UEu2fvZoa9eekjYj7
