A travel blog of a journey that I started in 2010 and I don't know when it will end ...

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra

The gateway we have chosen to go Aparados da Serra is Praia Grande. There are no beach and is not big, but is 10 km from the Trilha do Rio do Boi and 22 of the entrance to the park itself.

In the village we look for accommodation and we end up at HI Nativo dos Canyons... I do camping and Christina shared room. The place is fine, but I left feeling that the person who runs the place is not very helpful.

We spoke with the woman runs the hostel to see how we can make Trilha do Rio do Boi (which can only be done with local guide), she gives us the prices list... the same amount applies for 4 persons than only for one (140 Reales, around 70€) and excluding transportation! We don’t find nobody else to ask if wants to share the costs ... So, we finally take the guide with the condition that he will pick up to save transportation (40 Reales, about 20 €)
After all the headache of thinking about the guide, I plant the tent, and 5 minutes starts to rain hard... I think the tent needed a wash, but not like that!
At 8 am, the guide picks up us, and we go towards the river do Boi.
We put some protection to the possible cuts of stones river and start walking towards the songs do Itaimbezinho (in Tupi-Guarani language Ita means stone and Aí'be means sharpening).
We cross the river about 30 times! With shoes and water almost the waist.
The valley it goes closing until it begins Canyon with its high stone walls and granite with waterfalls and water leaks everywhere.

We reach where the park says that from this point there is danger of landslides, access is not easy and forbidden. On the way back, I do some swim on the river.
We do 13km in 8 hours! Having to cross rivers and walk on wet takes time ...
The guide leaves us at the hostel, has been a good experience. Good day!

We go back at the hostel with wet shoes. Then we try to see how to get to the park next day, the park is at 22 km and 1000m of altitude on a road with only few paved sections. The man from the hostel tells us that he can take us for 100 Reales both ways, which is the price the taxis charges he concludes. (you are not a taxi and you charge the same, no way!). We say that we really want one way because we want to keep going, he says that only one way and leaving us on the road (2km away of the park) no less than 80 Reales (What???). I try to make him see that is illogical that if he doesn’t have to wait to go back he cannot charge more than the half of the price. He looks at me as if I were crazy to think he could lead us go for less than 80 Reales (Wow! He is not a taxi driver, is the man who runs the hostel ...). Well, no deal.

We have dinner and go to sleep.
In the morning breakfast. And then we go out to see alternatives at the point of information (which is hidden!) And our surprise is that the taxi fare back and forth is the same as the hostel, but the one way fare, obviously, is the half price. So we take a taxi for 50 Reales and we go to the hostel to take our staff.

At the moment that we were collecting our staff, the man from the hostel goes to talk with the taxi driver and asked how much he charged.... What cheek!
The taxi driver says that obviously is the half price, as you do not have to wait.

So we go up with taxi and the driver is very nice, he stop for us everywhere we want to take pictures and he explains the economical wealth of the area is simply because there are a lot of rice fields, vegetables and fruit.

At the park we do the two hikes that we can do, Trilha do Vértice to see the majestic Cascata das Andorinhas and Trilha do Cotovelo more perspective to see the canyon. We have lunch at the end of Trilha do Cotovelo with spectacular views!
At the end of the journey (at 4) we have to find transportation to Cambará do Sul or Canela. There is a bus to Cambará at 19h, but we do not want to wait that long.
So we ask the people who are leaving the park. The third people we ask, a couple from tres Coroas say that they can take us to Cambará do Sul ... ole!
On the Cambará way they tell us that if we want to go to Canela they can change the route to bring us there.
Great! So we go to Canela.

Some Photos
2011-04-Aparados da Serra (BR) https://photos.app.goo.gl/h84ByAYD1zX72y2W8

Versió catalana

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